Yep it was the Dutch. They put quite a lot into their show – building this dome (the largest I have seen - Eden Project excepted) as a ‘chill out’ space (though those weren’t the words they used).
They enticed their ‘Agricultural
Minister’ to stay for two days. I put Agriculture
Minister’ in quotation marks as the Netherlands doesn’t (at least the
time I last looked) have a dedicated Ministry of Agriculture. It was subsumed into the Ministry of Economic
Affairs, Agriculture and Innovation some five years ago. It might possibly be
the only country in the world (some city and gulf states excluded) that doesn’t have a dedicated
ministry of agriculture.
It was a thought provoking experience. I have always felt uncomfortable with the emphasis on
commercialism and product development at BioFach. To me the organic movement –has
(historically at least) always had simplicity and scaling back as implicit - if
not core - values. I find it strange – and some what distasteful - to see it caught
up in this Darwinian adventure of varietal destruction. Schumpeter terms it creative destruction; the
process by which a capitalist market economy reshapes and refines the products
and services it provides. I had real
problems when I first exposed to this first few times (the first was fifteen years ago) I
went to BioFach. I came into
organics through the world of wholefood shops and brown rice and would have
thought of the product range available now as a betrayal of ‘core
principles’. But in that intervening
period organic market share (in the EU) has gone up from less than 0.5% to more
than 5% - that’s a huge growth and has involved a large amount of ‘mainstreaming’
without compromising on core values. Mostly
I think the balance has been achieved. There are now organic supermarkets in most
large (and some small) towns and cities in mainland Europe (a phenomenon that one
speaker pointed out has not yet taken off in the UK and is a potential market
opportunity) and a range of outlets from farmer’s markets and delivery schemes
for the dedicated consumer to supermarkets to the occasional or time-pressed
organic consumer.
But back to product development: there were 7055 new organic
products on display at Biofach this year.
I didn’t count them all: they were numbered sequentially. They ranged from cheeses to chutneys; sauces
to oat bars to a vac-packed fresh pasta with pipe holes at the bottom that
allows the user to serve ‘fresh pasta’ at home – straight out of the
fridge. I’ll say that again: that’s 7055 new products
from the organic sector. Given that the organic sector accounts for about 5% of
the European food market (and most of the innovations were food) that suggests
that there might be 140,000 new food products launched onto the market every
year (perhaps a bit less given that the organic sector is more innovative and buoyant
than the conventional ones). I don’t
know if they all been launched or if some are just prototypes. How many will
survive or succeed? Underneath this it’s interesting to conjecture how many
people have been involved in developing them: how many peoples hopes and dreams
resting on gaining success, recognition or even sales order from this one
competition?
One of the projects I work with had a partner who exhibited
a new line in this competition (a line of pure berry extracts). Though they didn’t win a prize they did get
much recognition and commercial interest and were ‘chuffed’. I am sure that if I came up with a new recipe
or processing idea that I wanted to commercialise then I would eat my words
about my apparent distaste for innovation. But its not innovation as such that I am
uncomfortable with but with the overwhelming emphasis that is placed upon it –
as illustrated by the Dutch Ministry’s choice of name. Yes there is role for innovation but it seems
that other values get lost in the rush for something new and better.
On the journey home I had much time to digest the latest (now
in its 16th edition) version of the World of Organic Agriculture. Helga
Willer and team at FiBL and IFOAM have once again done a wonderful job tracking
the changes in organic land – under different regimes of cultivation and
consumption – combining detailed statistics with snapshots of the most
interesting developments. Its not easy counting
(or estimating the number of organic
producers / hectares in Say Mali
– where government statistics of any sort are in short supply. We’re now up to
11 countries in the world with than 10% of their land certified organic – a sort
of psychological breakthrough when claiming that that organic is no longer
marginal. And while some of those countries
are micro-states or very small – they do also include Sweden , Italy
and the Czech Republic .
Well done to Helga and her team at FiBL
and IFOAM for publishing another excellent and as ever better informed book
(which is also available online).
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